Iceland - Day 4 : Elmstrur and Alftavatn

woke up at 6:20, clearly not used to the Iceland time zone. I started with my breakfast of 150 grams of granola. That wasn't a huge amount but enough to not be hungry. When most people were just getting up I went on my way. The surroundings were different from yesterday, with a lot of green hills.


After two hours I still hadn't seen anyone. It was pretty cool to be all alone in such a vast valley.


turned a corner and entered a beautiful valley with a river, although it was a bit cloudy. I took a break at a waterfall.


Three hours later I saw the first people off the day. A bit later I had to cross another ice cold river. A group of people arrived, followed by their own chase car. That must be very peaceful. According to my thermometer it was 9 degrees, but it felt a lot colder due to the strong current. 

icelandic landscape
wading rivers in iceland
hiking in iceland

One of the many rivers and moss covered hills along the way

My feet started to hurt, not because of blisters, but the soles were just hurting from the extra weight of my backpack. The winter jacket I had brought also was way too warm to wear during the day, although I needed it at night. In a few days I should have enough room in my backpack to put it in there and wear only a t-shirt. I passed another bridge before arriving at a cabin. I decided to take another break before walking the last 5 km to the campsite.

hiking in south iceland

View from the cabin along the way

The surroundings changed slowly, now there were a lot of hills and grass. In the distance I could see rocks in many colors, that's where I will be walking tomorrow.

hiking in iceland

After crossing yet another river I arrived at Alftavatn, a beautiful lake. This was also where my next campsite was. During the following days I would follow the Landmannalaugar trail for another 20-25 km before starting my home made route, running straight through Iceland's interior until I reach the ring road in the north.


took a break in my tent. My feet felt like they were on fire. I also felt a bit vague in my head, I think I drank too little and I even got a bit sunburned. I hadn't expected that to happen in Iceland. It was only 3 o'clock but if I would be outside more getting a heat stroke would be a real possibility. Tomorrow I will drink more and check my GPS more often, as today I took a few small wrong turns. 

After dinner and dishes I washed my socks in the river and checked out the lake, where several movies have been shot. Although it was close to freezing there were some people swimming. Tomorrow it will be 12 km to the next mountain cabin and then another 10 until the end of the Laugavegur trail. If I remember correctly it does involve a serious climb.

Distance walked: 16 km