Iceland - Day 8 : Alone with the mosquitoes

This morning I again started walking around 8. At 11:30 I had already walked 14 km and took a break. I wondered if today I might not see anyone. In a way I already went a day without seeing anyone, as I hadn't encountered anyone since the man in the car yesterday. My backpack finally has enough room for my jacket so I can walk in my t-shirt. The entire morning I passed through the same dry hills of volcanic rocks as yesterday, which was getting a bit monotonous.

volcanic plains in iceland
a tree that grows back into the ground

A bush that had grown back into the ground due to the hard wind.

volcanic plains in iceland

always look forward to Bart and my cycling vacations but as the days pass during those trips there usually are increasingly more moments when I feel tired and less in the mood to cycle. During the final few days we are usually counting down the kilometers to get home. In the afternoon I felt a bit the same and was looking forward to seeing everyone back home again. My mom and dad had left on their own vacation two weeks prior to my departure, so I haven't seen them in over 3 weeks.

Center of iceland

After enjoying the view a bit with some music in the background I continued. The roads were hardly noticeable and there were many side-tracks where someone had just driven off in the wilderness. Several times I was still walking in the right direction but realized I wasn't on a road anymore. At one point the road was fully gone, so I continued using my GPS. In the distance I saw a car, which meant I still saw some signs of civilization today. During the next kilometers there were only rocks.


The road according to my GPS, at some places were poles to mark a long gone path

About half a kilometer from the larger road I passed a lake, so I decided to camp there to have access to water. Hopefully tomorrow there will be an actual road, if I need to walk like this for the next 100 km navigating will get 'interesting'. The ground around the lake is very mushy, it's a strange kind of clay that acts like a sponge.

icelandic mountains

While pitching my tent the mosquitoes started their attack. There were increasingly more. At one point I thought it had started raining, but it turned out to be the tapping of mosquitoes against my outer tent. For those who think I am exaggerating, here is a picture:


This time some mosquitoes were stinging. I am not sure why they are so abundant in some places and not others. Several similar lakes I passed today had none. It felt good to get enough water for the night and then cook while lying in my sleeping bag with the tent closed. A nice break from the tough environment outside. After two days of eating only granola, peanuts, and rice it was time for mince meat. While cooking mosquitoes kept flying in, after picking the 5th one out I gave up and just stirred them in with the food.

minced meat expedition food

Mosquitoes with food through them

While cooking I kept hearing weird sizzling noises. Hopefully there wasn't anything wrong with my stove. It turned out to be mosquitoes flying into the flame. The entire stovehead was covered with small pieces of charcoal. The minced meat tasted very good. It's a kind of mashed potatoes mixed with vegetables, herbs, and pieces of meat (other than the mosquitoes).


Currently it is again super windy, which means most of the mosquitoes have disappeared. After I finished eating I thought I heard voices. At first I wondered if I was going crazy, but it turned out to be two hikers. They had come over the road I plan to walk tomorrow, which means it actually exists. One of the hikers is Israeli and the other French. They camped pretty close to my tent, I hope that means the mosquitoes will divide themselves between us. 

wild camping in iceland

The camp of the other two hikers

It was funny to meet two other haggard hikers in the middle of nowhere. I also realized they were camping exactly where I just 'went to the bathroom'. The toilet paper had blown everywhere, which they must have noticed. The guys told me they had started out with two other people and saw icebergs near a glacier and even encountered snow. While pitching their tents they told me they had sent food to Landmannalaugar. I had considered doing something similar, but hadn't been 100% sure how reliable that would be, I didn't want end up in the middle of Iceland without food.


Their food would arrive tomorrow but they were nearly out of it already. I didn't have anything to spare either. As Landmannalaugar was still 35 km away one of them wanted to hitchhike, but the other wanted to walk every kilometer of their trip. I would also honestly rather not eat for a day then not walk my entire route. They also asked if I had done things like this before. I explained how I normally went cycling with Bart, but that he didn't wanted to join anymore now he had a girlfriend. The Israeli immediately sighed deeply and looked at me with a look of understanding, he clearly had been through a similar experience. I couldn't help laughing, being here is way more special than sitting at home with a girlfriend.

Distance walked: 27 km