South Greenland - Day 6 : A hole in the fog
In the morning it was freezing and foggy. My route passed through soggy and hilly terrain. All the fog resulted in a cool ambience, but also made it harder to navigate. Of course my GPS directed me in the right direction, but walking in location X or only 100 meters to the left or right usually made a huge difference. A few times I thought I was going in the right direction to, after 10 minutes of stumbling uphill, realize there was a nearly flat canyon running in the same direction 100 meters away. The resolution of the map was simply not large enough to see the smaller hills. The fog also made all the rocks slippery, luckily I only fell once, but it was hard. Better to do it right the first time I guess. Later there was more swamp and fog, mixed with drizzle and cold winds. By now I was walking straight north to a large glacial lake called Hullet, which means hole. The route was level so I could walk fast. Near the hole it was even colder and foggier. I could only see a few meters ahead of me. I noticed the lake's edge, but as it was cold I walked a bit further to take shelter behind a large boulder. Only when the wind briefly picked up did I notice a much larger lake and figured that must be Hullet. Behind a rock I sent a GPS signal home and started lunch: a mix of nuts. Halfway through I realized lunch could wait until the weather was better. It was important to eat enough, but despite my waterproof and insulated clothes it was too cold to sit down for long periods of time.
[Only now, when I am writing this story in my warm tent, do I realize that none of the two lakes I had seen were Hullet, it lay a few hundred meters further east. It doesn't really matter, as it was way too foggy to see anything anyway.]
The first few kilometers passed through the same valley as on the way there. Very slowly the fog started to clear but it continued to rain the entire day. I arrived at a lake which shore was marked as a swamp on the map. The description of the route typically consisted of only 2-3 sentences a day, so things like this were only mentioned if the conditions were horribly bad. The first few kilometers weren't worse than the other swamps I had walked through and I started to wonder if it might have dried up in recent years. Soon I discovered it hadn't. Everywhere I stood my feet would sink by 30 cm over the course of a few seconds. That did mean I had to walk fast and thus cover a lot of distance quickly. After the swamp I reached the edge of Kuukuluup Tasia, a huge glacial lake which I would follow for the next 15 kilometers. Along the way I would also pass 4 Inuit ruins. I had seen pictures of other Greenlandic ruins on the internet. Those were just a bunch of rocks 20 cm high. Despite a lot of searching I didn't find the first. Because of the rain and fog I couldn't see all of the lake, but it was still beautiful. I could see the glacier calving and dozens of iceberg floating. Normally places like this are filled with tourist busses and hot dog stands, so to be there all by myself was really amazing.
I supposedly passed Inuit ruin 2, which also was nowhere to be seen. A few kilometers later I stopped next to ruin number 3. I also couldn't find this one, everywhere the ground looked the same. Between the glacier lake, icebergs, rain, and fog it wasn't very warm, so I got enough water for the night and locked myself in the tent.
The ruin (according to the GPS)
In my tent I heard a low rumble from the calving icebergs every 5 minutes or so. I again didn't encounter anyone today (day 4). I did see some footprints yesterday and today, but have no clue how long they have been there. Tomorrow I would first need to climb a reasonable amount during which I hoped to get a nice view over the lake. I hoped the weather would be better. After writing today's story I felt I needed to take some more photos, just in case the weather would be even worse tomorrow. I had already taken my clothes off, but as nobody was around I went outside in my underwear. Not everyone can say they photographed Greenlandic icebergs in their underwear.