arrow&v

West Greenland - Day 10

The next morning I woke up to beautiful weather and quickly started paddling. During the next couple days I would paddle the entire length of the fjord, something that as far as I know nobody had ever done before in a packraft. I had given myself a maximum of 5 days to paddle the ~80 km, but hoped it wouldn’t take that long.

Because of the nice weather and lack of wind I went pretty fast. I quickly learned that travelling by packraft came with its own challenges. The cliffs of the fjord were very steep and reached directly into the sea. As a result, it was near impossible to find places to go to the bathroom and I also needed to make sure I carried enough water; although I managed to reach some streams by boat.

Eternity fjord
birds in eternity fjord
eternity fjord

Along the way I passed several glaciers. I had read about the katabatic winds blowing down from them and carefully steered around them. Still, I could often clearly feel the strong wind coming from their direction, which also meant the currents suddenly changed direction at their base. Nonetheless, the wind and current were usually quite easy to paddle through and it was nice to see all the numerous blocks of ice floating around me. As it was warm I ate a few chunks off of them.

paddling eternity fjord
eternity fjord

Without too much effort I travelled about 30 km. The difficulty was finding a place to sleep. As mentioned, the side of the fjords were steep everywhere. At home I had spent quite some time looking at my maps and google earth trying to find suitable places to camp, but the resolution was often not high enough to tell. Only after about an hour I found a small bit of land were I could safely get of the water and which might harbor some level spots. It was only about 5 o’clock, but as there were no other level places to be seen for at least a few kilometers I decided to try to camp there.

After a bit of climbing I found an area about 1x2m big where I barely managed to pitch my tent. I dragged my packraft there as well and deflated it so it couldn't blow away. There were some blue and blackberries which I ate for dessert. My GPS communicator allowed me to see the weather predictions for the next days. Although they were likely not super accurate in the narrow fjord, tomorrow would definitely be windier. In the evening I could already see the wind pick up.