South Greenland - Day 12 : Pitstop
Today was a rest day. I continued reading when I woke up. Around 11 I took another shower and washed the clothes I had been wearing while washing the other pair the day before. In the store I could barely buy lunch and dinner for 20 euros, no wonder everyone there ate only seal and sheep.
Ideally I didn't want to walk at all this day. However, there was supposedly a nice viewpoint nearby. Carrying all the food and drinks I had bought I started the half hour long climb. It passed through a kind of forest made of Arctic trees. There were 150 foreign species that were planted to see if they would survive. The study had concluded that the low flora diversity in Greenland wasn't because of the cold, but because after the last ice age very few new species had arrived. The view from the top wasn't super spectaculair but still nice. After lunch, I headed back to the hostel to read if the submarine crew would survive (the book I was reading was called Ice Station Zebra and pretty good).
View over Narsarsuaq
Within 24 hours I had finished all 280 pages. Since then I spend most time eating. As no shoes were allowed inside the hostel I mostly walked around barefoot. I don't know if it was because of the cold or dry air but the the porch gave me splinters all over. There was also a nice poster about falcons in the area and the effect of pesticides on them.
A bit later the two men I had met yesterday returned. We started talking and it turned out they had not only made the poster but had been studying falcons in the area for the past 30 years. Just like me they had also studied chemistry, that was quite the career change. One of them wanted to hear everything about my hike. I told them my plan to go to the nearby village Igaliku. From there I would be able to follow two hiking routes. The lady in the tourist office had recommended the southern one, but the man convinced me to walk the northern one. That way I wouldn't need my packraft, which would save a lot of weight. I would also visit Qaqortoq, the largest 'city' in south Greenland with 3500 inhabitants.
The loop from Igaliku to Qaqortoq would likely take about 9-10 days. After that I would still have 2-3 days left in which I planned to explore the area east of Narsarsuaq, which ends at Greenland's main ice sheet. The falcon guys also suggested taking a helicopter ride, that seemed expensive but we agreed to discuss it in the days before I fly home.
First I needed to make it through the next part.