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South Greenland - Dag 18 : Hvalso church

Today I again woke up tired, every day it took more energy to drag myself out of bed. I still immensely enjoyed the hiking, but after over two weeks the hardship and scarce meals began to take their toll. The first half a kilometer went easy. The blue route I was on was marked on rocks so I didn't need to plan my own route. Then I reached a relatively large stream, which always meant trouble. This area contained so many rocks and bushes that I lost the route every time it wasn't super clearly marked or there was a stream to cross. In those cases I would suddenly find myself in the middle of miles and miles of bushes running in every direction with no easy way through. I now also needed to go uphill, which made moving even harder.


On top of the hill I reached a mountain plateau where I found the route again. As soon as I started descending I lost it again. The only places where the route was well marked was where the marks were unnecessary. The air was again filled with mosquitoes and the 'vampire flies'. I seemed to have lost my mosquito headnet. That those bugs were eating me alive was already annoying, but without a head net they also continuously flew in my eyes, nose, ears, and mouth. Fortunately I found the net again a while later.

After a few kilometers more I reached Hvalso Church. On the online photos I had seen this had seemed a nice ruin. Now I only saw a pile of rocks and the remains of a wall. To be sure I looked down over a hill. Fortunately that's when I discovered the church and another building. It was very nice. There was even a sign indicating what all the buildings' function had been and some history about the church itself. It felt special to be at such an historic spot all by myself. [For those interested in the history of Greenlands' vikings and the collapse of their society, I  recommend the book 'Collapse' by Jared Diamond.]

hvalso church
Hvalso church

Shortly after leaving the church I passed a small farm, but there was nobody there. I was super tired but fortunately this was an easy part of the route. I walked literally three times as fast as through the shrubs. Because I couldn't find a good sleeping spot I ended up walking a nice distance today. The following three days would involve a lot of climbing. I hoped the scrubs wouldn't be too high and the route easy to follow.

camping in tents in greenland
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