South Greenland - Dag 18 : Hvalso church

Today I again woke up tired, every day it took more energy to drag myself out of bed. I still immensely enjoyed the hiking, but after over two weeks the hardship and scarce meals begin to take their toll. The first half a kilometer went easy. The blue route I was on was marked on rocks so I didn't need to devise my own route. Then I reached a relatively large stream, which always meant trouble. This area contained so many rocks and bushes that I lost the route every time it wasn't super clearly marked or there was a stream to cross. In those cases I would suddenly find myself in the middle of miles and miles of bushes running in every direction with no easy way through. I now also needed to go uphill, which made moving even harder.


On top of the hill I reached a mountain plateau where I found the route again. As soon as I started descending I lost it again. The only places where the route was well marked was where the marks were unnecessary. The air was again filled with mosquitoes and the 'vampire flies'. I seemed to have lost my mosquito headnet. The bugs eating me alive was already annoying, but without head net they also continuously flew in my eyes, nose, ears, and mouth. Fortunately I found it again later.

A few kilometer later I reached Hvalso Church. On the online photos I had seen this seemed a nice ruin. Now I only saw a pile of rocks and the remains of a wall. To be sure I looked down over a hill. Fortunately that's when I discovered the church and another building. It was very pretty. There was even a sign indicating what all the buildings' function had been and some history about the church. It felt special to be at such an historic spot all by myself. [For those interested in the history of Greenlands' vikings and the collapse of their society, I would recommend the book 'Collapse' by Jared Diamond.]

hvalso church
Hvalso church

After the church I passed a small farm, but there was nobody there. I was super tired but fortunately this was an easy part of the route. I walked literally 3 times as fast as through the shrubs. Because I couldn't find a good sleeping spot I ended up walking a nice distance today. The next 3 days will involve a lot of climbing. Hopefully the bushes aren't too high and the route is easy to follow.

camping in tents in greenland